Through the backstreets of Chinatown with Yvan Cohen

“Chinatown is truly the beating heart of Bangkok”
Yvan Cohen

Have you ever noticed how many “Chinatowns” are scattered around the world, in cities such as New York, San Francisco, London, Paris, and even in South America?

Thailand’s Chinatown, known locally as Yaowarat, has been a Chinese cultural center since the era of King Rama V.  Still a vibrant commercial hub, it attracts travelers from around the globe eager to sample its delicious food and to experience the colour and energy of its bustling streets.

British photographer Yvan Cohen spent a decade exploring Chinatown. His quest was to describe in pictures the heart and soul of a community that is among the oldest, the most vibrant and the most authentic in Thailand.

Why Chinatown?

Yvan Cohen: It was not love at first sight but a gradual process of discovery. At a time when communities are being displaced by modernization throughout Bangkok, Chinatown feels like a last bastion of authenticity, where there is still a strong sense of identity and community. The fact that much of Chinatown remains untouched creates a strong connection to the past. Without a connection to history, it’s hard to understand the present. Who knows, Chinatown could well be destroyed by developers one day. It’s already changing fast, especially with the arrival of the MRT.  I feel it’s important to record Chinatown for posterity, too.

How did your Chinatown project begin?

It began slowly. There was never a plan to embark on a long term project. It wasn’t love at first sight but a long courtship. I would spend hours wandering through the hidden alleyways and backstreets, usually at night when it was most atmospheric.  I was also lucky to have friends who helped introduce me to the community. I immediately felt a direct connection with the past. I loved seeing and feeling the layers of history in Chinatown. More than the physical buildings, which do provide a beautiful cinematic-looking backdrop, I was interested in the people who live in Chinatown, in their lives and in their stories. I felt that Chinatown had soul in a way that just can’t exist in the artificial communities created by high-rise condominiums, where people don’t feel connected to each other or to their past.

Can you share with us your creative process?

I believe you create your best photos when you are inspired. Being visually in love with what you are photographing is very important. I have often worked on assignment, but this project was different because it was so personal. It was an expression of my passion for this part of Bangkok. I photographed Chinatown through its people, trying to portray a community with deep roots and a strong identity. Though I was a stranger in these tight knit communities, I always felt secure. Indeed, people welcomed me. Perhaps, it was easier for me as a foreigner. I was curious about them, and they were curious about me. It was incredible that I could delve into so many private worlds. I also sensed that people appreciated that I attached so much importance to Chinatown and to its history and culture.

Have you ever thought of visually documenting Chinatown during the lockdown?

I can’t take pictures of people wearing masks. For me, communication takes place through the whole face, not just the eyes. When people are masked, you cannot see their smiles. You can’t read their expressions. You can’t tell who they are. When I go back through my Chinatown pictures, their colors remind me of the wonderful energy and indeed beauty of the place. My pictures are a document of real life as it existed before the pandemic. They are not shot with fashion models, and they don’t attempt to present a classic form of beauty. There is a strong documentary element to my work.

Why did you decide to photograph in colour?

Colour photographs give us the sense that we are seeing the world as it is. As a result, it’s easy for colour images to feel banal. I feel that photographing in colour is a fantastic challenge: how can one create an image that surpasses the banality of the real world, touching the viewer in a way that gives them a sense of something inarticulable: a feeling, a memory, an emotion?  I aspire to create images that give the viewer an experience that goes beyond a glancing appraisal. I want them to discover more as they look more deeply at my pictures. It’s a huge challenge and 99% of the time I fail.  I dedicated ten years to this project, and I have selected 15 pictures for this timed auction which I hope people will enjoy. 

Memoirs of Bangkok: A Photo Timed Auction featured selected photos of Chinatown by Yvan Cohen. Browse and bid until 21 August 2021 at 6 p.m. Bangkok time via www.rcbauctions.com and www.invaluable.com